May 9
May storm, early night, Trans-Mountain Road, El Paso
Monsoon season appeared to have arrived early in the Borderland. A vicious storm system that had moved through the greener side of Texas was moving in the wrong direction, west, toward the desert and against the Gulf Stream. The previous evening, darkness came early when black clouds huddled over the sky, jamming as they reached the Franklin Mountains.
Storm clouds moving over Anthony’s Nose
As only nighttime rainfall can ensure, I awoke feeling like I had slept better than ever, and I started my hike with the giddy relief and anticipation that follows a break in the drought. Rain was so rare in the desert that it supported my belief of greater things, and it disguised the desert into a new, but recognizable, place. The heavy rain had made tiny flash flooding along the trails, and the tan dirt of the desert ground had taken on brown, red and chocolaty colors with the same crunchy, wet texture of a beach.
It was my first hike alone with my new camera. I had no pit crew for assistance, except for Emma, and I didn’t expect the young dog to be much help. Could I hike and photograph (and walk a dog)? I guessed I’d find out.
Cardinal
Red movement caught my eye, a little bird that looked something like the cardinals I knew from back east. It was celebrating the moisture, challenging me to focus on it as it jumped between creosote limbs. My finishing product was that nothing was in focus, but the cardinal’s mischievous look was not lost.
Hawk
Another bird soared above me, this time a hawk. I was thrilled to be hiking after the storm, but the delight of these animals was even more warranted. They adapted ways of finding water in the desert while I could turn on a faucet to fill my hydration pouch. The rain was pleasant to me, but gave them survival.
When I neared Cardiac Hill, several soaptree yuccas bloomed proudly along the trail. Last summer, they had been so hard to find, and this year they were popping up across the Borderland. I anticipated the rain to only help their growth. I reached up to a full plant and picked one of its flowers. With rainwater accumulated in the dips of the peddles, it was a delicious, sweet breakfast.
North Franklin Mountain and blooming soaptree yucca
I hiked with no plan in direction except see the Franklin Mountains through new lens. I traveled along the main trail in the northeast portion of the mountains, the Old Tin Mines Road. At each trail intersection, Lazy Cow, The Maze, Blue Moon, I kept hiking higher, eventually reaching the mines perched above Scenic Trail.
Old Tin Mines
Feeling exploratory, I turned south on Scenic Trail toward North Franklin Mountain. I had been this direction only twice when I’d hiked the mountain. Today, with the cool air and humidity, I felt good enough to climb Frankie. Looking toward the sky, I thought better of it. The weather was perfect for me and Emma, but the clouds threatened rain on my camera.
Should we hike North Franklin?
On the opposite side of the trail, there stood a single ponderosa pine tree. Seeing the tree has dumbfounded me each time. The Franklins were dryer than their neighbors, the Organ and Guadalupe Mountains, both of which could support such trees. The only substantial trees here were Cottonwoods, which grew around springs. What was this tree doing on here? Had it been planted during the time of the tin mine? Apparently, I wasn’t the only one who thought the tree to be noteworthy—a single Christmas ornament hung from one of its branches about six feet off the ground. The tree was one of a kind and festive!
Lone ponderosa pine decorated for Christmas
During the times I’d hiked the Scenic Trail south, I’d noticed trails on either side, but with having a big hiking day already by climbing North Franklin, I hadn’t expended the energy to explore the trails. I decided to see them today. Four miles would be a quicker run home in the rain than seven!
One trail toward the mountains was only noticeable by the orange rock where the trail had been cut into the hillside. It had not been maintained, and a little ways in I was curling around sotol and rock every step, careful not to take a stumble while I was carrying the Holy Grail (the camera, that is).
Secret canyon
The scenery was stunning—when I looked up from my foot placements. It headed into a little canyon northeast of Mundy’s Gap. I had no idea was inside the canyon’s depth, but before reaching it, the trail would reach a grassy slope. Against the mountains were outcrops of rock similar to Cardiac Hill. I wondered where the road ultimately ended up—were there more mines? Was there a hidden spring? High on the mountainside, I saw a shadow in the rock that looked like a cave. Was it home to something?
Mountainside cave
I wanted to keep hiking, but I considered the distance between me and the maintained trail. At that point, I was only a half-mile in. If rain came…yes, I would bust my face and the camera trying to rush out. On a dry day (and when I knew what I was doing with my camera), I’d explore the trail further.
Back on Scenic Trail, I was able to pick my pace back up as I continued south. This was my best chance to get to know hiking with the camera, and I was feeling comfortable with it (watch-my-step-hiking would come). In Lincoln National Forest, it had been all shooting with little hiking, an unproductive ratio. I had been discouraged that I couldn’t walk my dogs at the same time, and that my camera had no protection other than a lens cap when I wasn’t using it—after all, my middle name sure as heck isn’t Grace! But so far, things seemed to be going well, and I felt optimistic, not discouraged.
Looking down (north) on Scenic Trail
An accessory for my big camera seemed to be just what I needed for the trail, a soft nylon cover that clipped to my neck strap and Velcroed over the camera when it wasn’t in use. It wouldn’t be a perfect fix in the event I fell off the mountain, but it protected the camera (with my smaller lens) in general. Even hiking there uphill at a brisk pace, it was comfortable.
My favorite photograph of the day, Apache plume
There were two other trails that went to the left, down the mountains. One trail, I missed entirely until I was far above it. The trailhead to it remained a mystery to me. The second was on the corner when the trail entered a tight canyon. From Scenic Trail, my new trail looked like it would be a lengthy developed route. I headed up eager to see what was over the crest. I hoped it would connect to the Blue Moon Road Trail, giving me a hiking loop.
Dead-end at a beautiful view
Well, “nowhere” wasn’t a correct way to describe where this trail quickly ended. Rather than a trail, it led up to what appeared to be a campsite with a long-ago used fireplace, and the view was spectacular. I climbed to higher ground to a rock escarpment where a tiny cactus made its throne.
From my highpoint, I looked to see if there were any trails that might lead me forward. One spur, I realized was two, and two became four, so there was no formal route to the Blue Moon, and off-roading wouldn’t have been any more practical here as on the trail near the Christmas Tree. Another day, I decided.
Although I couldn’t find a new route, this was something that I appreciated about the Franklin Mountains. I grew up hiking trails in Maine where views were limited by trees. Here I could see my trails ahead. From the top of North Franklin, seeing the North Hills trail system above had been like looking at map.
The hike down Scenic Trail to Old Tin Mine Road was brisk and easy. Already summer temperatures had made it to El Paso, and the sudden cool, humid day made me feel light, like I could walk forever.
Turn left
A turnoff I had passed many times caught my eye. I knew where the trail ended up, on the Trench Town Road Trail, which I had hiked before in its eastern portions, but I had never traveled there. Today I was exploring, and I turned left toward the hill.
Just fifty yards down, evidence of heavy traffic across the trail caught my eye. I looked right and did a double take. A cave was in the mountainside, and I had almost passed it!
I held Emma back uncertain as to what might be inside. A bush blocked the cave proving some security for the entrance. Nearing it, I could see the angular cut outs on the rock. This had been part of the tin mine, but that didn’t mean it wasn’t the home of something. I unclipped Emma in the event that she’d need to escape, and I approached the cave entrance.
“Hello?”
Nothing answered, and I rolled my eyes. What would a mountain lion reply? “Yo, Lady! Happy trails!”?
I grabbed a pebble from the wall and threw it over the bush into the cave. It hit the ground gently, creating a puff of dust right beside a sneaker print. Probably there wouldn’t be a mountain lion. Content that I had exercised appropriate caution, I pushed through the brush (appreciative for the cool day that encouraged me to wear long sleeves and pants) and headed inside.
Emma bravely enters the cave
And that was it. I guessed too much caution was better than no caution! The cave was the size of the box stall my horse Kody had, and at its deepest point, I could stand up straight. In a survival situation, this would be a cool place to shelter a storm. To the best I figured, this cave was drilled when tin was being mined in the mountains a century before. More than likely, when they were unable to find the mineral here, they stopped drilling.
After checking out the cave, I continued down Trench Town Road which turned into Polecat Alley Trail. Along the way, came across a large piece of concrete. I guessed it was a vertical mine, now covered, or a well. An inch of water collected on top, Emma discovered. This was one of the few times in the Franklin Mountains I saw her drink without coming from a water source we carried.
I was enjoying exploring the Franklin Mountains. In all these hikes, these discoveries were right here just off the trails that were my usual stomping grounds. Hiking curiously, and even through the lens of my new camera, I was getting to know the mountains even better.
But I didn’t see the rain coming. A drop on my nose brought me out of my “la-la” and told me to check out the sky. (If a raindrop tells you that, it’s never good.) Time to get hiking! The storm clouds moving into the North Hills above the Castner Range of Fort Bliss looked like they meant business!
I put my cover over my camera, opened my backpack, flapped out my rain jacket, wrapped my camera in it, hoped real hard, and headed off at my best hiking speed. As I passed the intersection to Lazy Cow, my big walk wasn’t fast enough. Drops again fell, but this time as a steady sprinkle…and then a drizzle.
For the first time, I trail ran. Yes, last summer I slowed down and enjoyed monsoon season, but my camera might melt, and I had to get out of there. Reaching the levee, I must have looked pretty wacky running with high top boots and a backpack that jostled my contents loudly at each step. I’d always wanted to try trail running, but I pictured something prettier.
I made it back to my vehicle mostly dry, and my camera was great. Being a photographing hiker seemed to be a success so long as my next investment was a rain cover for my pack! Minutes after arriving home, the sky opened and a heavy, rejuvenating downpour fell on the Borderland.
































































